I am born and raised in Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton is only a short two and a half hours away. Needless to say, I’ve been there a million times for both work and pleasure. My work in the film industry brings me to places like the Fortress of Louisbourg, and my past days trucking regularity brought me to Sydney. I’ve been all over Cape Breton for pleasure too. Hiking, mountain biking, cycling, and visiting friends.
This trip was a bit different. I’ve been married for a couple years now, but in total have known my wife for much longer than that. She is new to Nova Scotia, so a trip to Cape Breton with her was special, and even more-so when I don’t have to work at the same time. We squeezed in as many touristy things as we could with our long 3.5day weekend. First up, was a bird boat tour from Bird Island Boat Tours to see puffins and other birds less common to see without a boat. Anyway, let’s get on with the trip.
Bird Island Boat Tours
We motored out with a half boat-full of others with dark overcast sky late in the day after the long drive from Halifax. We choose a photography tour, which meant less people on the boat. More room to get photos without crawling over people to access the windows and open areas. We saw Bald Eagles, Razorbill, Double-crested Cormorants, Atlantic Puffins, seals and Great Blue Herons. A pile of gulls too, but not interesting ones. Sorry Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls, but it’s true.
Our boat had made unintended contact with a rock and decided to stayed there for an extended period of time. By the time the boat was freed, some damage had occurred and we had to head back. We only saw a small portion of the bird islands and missed some species of interest. An adventure it was, and we got our money back and headed to our hotel for the night.
The Dreaded Best Western Hotel
Harbourview Inn, Surestay Collection by Best Western.
What a dump. Do not go. 2 out of 10 recommend.
Dirty and constructed by 5 year olds. I wonder what Best Western thinks about their name being used on a Falmouth quality of accommodation. And for $200 a night! We did book last minute, and it was peak season, but whatever. Never again. At least the beer at nearby Breton Crafthouse were delicious, and their pizza too!
Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site
In the morning we meandered our way to the fortress with a couple quick stops for birds and whatnot. We made a pitstop in Glace Bay to check out a White Ibis, making a very rare visit to Nova Scotia. We eventually made our way to the very large, reconstructed, 1700’s french fortified town to do some walking around, interacting with people in costume who work here, but pretend to live here. Learned considerable amount of history. I won’t go on, but definitely a place that’s worth a visit.
We made a birding stop in South Bar, very close to Sydney after visitng the fortress. Ruddy Turnstones, Least Sandpipers, Sempalmated Sandpipers, Sempalmated Plovers, Short-billed Dowitchers, Black-bellied Plovers, Lesser Yellowlegs and a Red Fox. Oh and a million Double-crested Cormorants as usual.
Cape Breton highlands
After waking up in the shit hotel, we packed and got outta there. Cabot Trail time. Kauzmann Trail was on the list first up. The view was to be amazing. It was not. We saw fog and got soaked by the dew in the shrubs and tress lining the trail. We continued on to Meat Cove and did another hike, Meat Cove Mountain Trail, where we were greeted by a beautiful view from the top.
We did one short hike in Cape Breton Highlands National Park called Benjie’s Lake Trail which we did some birding along. After this short stop, we hammered down to Cheticamp to find some food. First restaurant we went to was closed for a private event. The second was packed with live music. The third had room, but had a weird vibe, but we stayed and ate. Nothing remarkable, unlike that pizza at Breton Crafthouse in Sydney.
That night we check into our glamping tent at Live Life In Tents in Margaree Forks. Fire, bed, chairs, what more could you ask for? the bed was very clean and comfortable. We slept in. It was so cozy! 10/10 Recommend.
The next morning we made a stop for a short tour of Glenora Inn & Distillery. Cass likes whisky. Some of their whisky was very very expensive. We got some cheap stuff. We hammered on home after this. It was a good weekend together in Cape Breton.
